This is a question many folks ask when coming to a tackle store. Well, I used to ask the same question until a few
years ago. In the past I took my kids fishing as often as possible. We finally got a small boat and went fishing as much
as we could on summer holidays and Thanksgiving weekend. One thing that always seemed to be consistent was that
when we went fishing, the fishing was usually inconsistent. We all used one type of rod and did similar things each year.
Now I have to confess, we never use live bait as I feel that this is no contest. Of course the fish will eat live bait,
especially if the bait cannot get away. Don’t get me wrong, I don’t disagree with it; it’s just not my thing.

One day I got intrigued with a bait casting reel. I bought my first one several years ago at Grimsby Tackle prior to me
owning it. Unfortunately when you buy a combo you don’t get instructions on how to use it and if I did, I may not
have read it. I struggled with the reel and had some issues, but over time I started to figure it out. I had a renewed
vigor in fishing and my new found equipment. I was completely excited about how, after practicing with a spinner bait
in the yard, I could place this lure anywhere I wanted to. The one main thing was that I could whip it under a low
hanging tree and stop it on a dime with my thumb. The other thing was that I could pitch it gently into a pocket in the
weed bed or right beside the dock, and stop it precisely where I wanted to place it. I once heard a quote from a Pro
Angler that it takes about three to four years to really dial in on a bait caster, so I knew that there was more to it.
To this day, I cast off my dock several times a week to get super proficient at casting, with say a 1/4 ounce crank
bait and 17lb test. I am getting far better results than I could imagine. Casting a 1/4 ounce crank bait with 17 lb test
fluorocarbon line on a spinning outfit does not work that well.

I thought I would never even pick up my spinning rod again. But then after a while I realized that when I was casting
into the lake, I didn’t need to stop my lure. I just wanted to throw it as far as possible. A spinning rod and reel
definitely excel at smooth long casts with ease. Both are great, and if two rods are all you are willing to invest in than
these are two great outfits.

So you're still wondering why so many rods in a fishing store? Well, we will take a journey down the road of specifics. I
think you’ll find it very interesting. After reading through, you may also reconsider your single rod approach to all that
swims, and I do apologize for that in advance.

The Shimano company has been kind enough to label all their rod types: worm and jig, crank bait, etc. Some are
available in both spinning and casting. The actions can then be related to other manufacturers. You must understand
though, that you may have different preferences and want stiffer or softer rods based on your personal requirements.
Here is a look at the different actions. Without getting into light, medium, medium heavy, heavy, and then fast and
extra fast tips.
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First of all, if you have say, three rods you could rig up one with a crank bait, one with a drop shot rig, and one with spinner bait.
Now, as you are working the shores or drifting you are immediately ready for three situations. You could cast into a weed bed with
a spinner bait, which is a fairly weedless presentation and possibly get some active fish out of the weeds. As you move down the lake,
you will always find different structure on the bottom and near the shores. Your next section could very well be a stony section,
where you could pick up another rod and present a tube jig or drop shot rig. As you progress along, you may come to a steep
drop off that you may want to work with a deep crank bait, such as a Live Target Deep Diving Crawfish. You have just covered
three situations without opening your tackle box and wasting time changing lures.

Now I know what your thinking. What if I need a shallow crank bait, or a wacky worm rig, or a top water mouse, I will still be switching.
Ah, and therein lies the rub folks: you just started thinking like a pro angler. I know, I know, now your thinking…"this is gonna cost me a
fortune!" Well yes and no. You don’t have to get a whack of rods right away, but adding just one or two rods will get you on your way.

One thing you may want to think about is how much time you spend fishing. If you go on holidays three or four times a year,
when you get there you only have a certain amount of time on the water. If a few extra rods could exponentially increase the odds of
you catching more fish, would it be worth it? So, yes it is going to cost some more but when you go fishing, you stand a much greater
chance of being successful on the water. If you rig two or three different rods with a bait on each and learn how to use them very well,
you will catch more fish.

At Grimsby Tackle we would like to spend time with you and get you on the right track.
Come on in and talk to us and we will set you up, within your budget, with the best possible equipment and the knowledge you need
to catch more fish.
Rod/Reel Combinations

Spin Cast Rods
These are basic closed face reels that many of us started with when we were young. At the push of a button, you swing your rod, let go, and out goes your bait. Simple, easy, and basic.
The disadvantages: hard on line and poor drag systems.

Spinning Rod
These are the flagships that most people us. They are easy to use, they're a pleasure to cast, and have excellent drag systems. This will be your first choice for a multi-purpose fishing rod.

Bait Casting Outfit
This is, in my opinion, the phase two of fishing. These reels are a little harder to use unless you read the instructions or get a five minute lesson. However, they are the most controllable,
most accurate and easies to stop your bait with, making them the first choice for working any shoreline, weed bed, overhanging treeline, docks, or stumps. This would be the second rod
I would buy if I had a boat. This will probably be your most valuable tool on your boat.

Round Casting Reel/Heavy Rods
These are typically used for casting heavy lure or for heavy trolling. Mostly used for fishing musky and pike.

Shore Casting/Spinning
Now we are in to even more specialized rods. These rods are very dedicated and can only be used for their intended purpose. For instance, a 7.5 to 10 foot spoon chucking rod is very long
and flexible. This will give you the ability to cast a country mile with light line. They will typically be used for casting small spoons off a pier, or shore. Combining this with a large capacity
spinning reel and you will be well equipped to catch fish! You'll have the capacity to cast long distances and the line capacity to wrangle a feisty Salmon or rainbow in from
a long way’s out. However this rod would be far to unruly to use in a stream or in a boat as the length would be unmanageable. You may also consider a casting rod with a large capacity
level wind reel, but these may be a little harder to manage.

Float and Drifting/Spinning Rod
These rods, once again, are very specialized rods that are too flexible even for casting anything other than the lightest of spoons. There specific purpose is for bottom bouncing roe bags
or drifting a float with a roe bag under it in a river for salmon, rainbows, or browns.

Center Pin Float Rod
Ok, this is the "Grand Finale" of finesse fishing rods. These rods are anywhere from 10.5 to 16 feet long. They are totally dedicated to fishing in rivers with current and are typically a
steelhead (Rainbow trout) or salmon rod. They are meant for the most subtle presentation of a single egg, roe bag, bead, or yarn presentation on a tiny #8 hook. The bait is drifted
down the current in the most natural presentation possible, usually under a float. The reel is the most simplistic, interactive unit imaginable with nothing more than a spool than spins
unbelievably free. The casts are seemingly impossible to perform. If you are at all interested in this style of fishing, it is worth going to YouTube and look at the
Wallis Cast.
It may intimidate you as it did me, but I have learned it myself in an afternoon off the dock. Don’t get me wrong, I am not yet proficient at it in the least however, it is a worthwhile
pursuit for the purest of fishermen. The retrieve has no gear ratio advantage, and the drag is nothing more than the pressure of your own palm feathering the spool against the strength
of the beast you have persuaded to inhale your offering.

Trolling Rods/Reels
These rods and reels are typically heavy, large, level wind reels with line counters on them, The line counters enable to repeat swimming depth for a lure, when you have started to
catch fish. And here, we enter into a realm of equipment that can intimidate most fisherman. Most of this fishing is done on a boat with a hight tech fishfinder/chartplotter, planner
board masts, mounted multiple mounted rod holders, downriggers and a plethora of other paraphernalia hanging off the boat. The rods are specific to the different needs that a
fisherman can apply. In some great lakes fisherman can run two lines per person so there is greater potential for catching fish.

Your Main Tolling Rods
Trolling rods are used for just as they are stated. This can be as simple as putting a lure on the line and running it back 1-200 feet, then driving the boat at a speed 1 to 3 mph.
The following are the main trolling rod types:

Downrigger Rods - typically soft at the tip so it can be bent over in a nice arch when the line is attached to a heavy cannon ball. When a fish hits the lure, the rod snaps up,
alarming the crew that a fish is on.

Dipsy/Deeper Diver Rods - very heavy action stiff rods that can handle pulling a 3 - 4" disk through the water which will dive down to 75 feet. They will dive out to the sides
as well so they can be run in conjunction with downriggers while avoiding tangles.

Wire rods - heavy action rod with roller guides for running straight wire that will run deeper than traditional mono film fishing line.
Wire line to a dipsey/deeper diver. This allows greater depths and a different vibration, having a different effect on the lures run.

Lead Core/Copper Rods - run with 30, 50, 70, or 100 yards of line with an actual core made of lead. There will also be two to three hundred yards of backing line allowing the
“full core” to be in the water. This is a very stealthy approach, bringing lures down 20, 32, 45, and 54 feet without a downrigger or diver. This is a huge benefit when fishing walleye
or spooked fish.    

Planner Board Rods - used with a planner board mast and planner boards which pull as far as 150 feet away from the boat. The fishing lines are then attached to a clip, which is
sent down the line so two or three lines per side can be run making it possible to run six to ten lines out of a boat. This may seem a little overwhelming, but it is surprisingly easy when
some protocol is followed. It can be a magical day on the water when one line after another is popping violently off of it’s release clip from a big King
Salmon or feisty Rainbow Trout.
Trolling Rods for salmon and trout fishing with dipsy divers at Grimsby Tackle.
Well that about sums it up.
I hope I have explained things in
a way easy enough to grasp!
Don’t be intimidated about
coming to our store. We are
ready to start you off and take
you to a place that's comfortable
for you.

Owner, Grimsby Tackle
Okuma Fishing Rods Website
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St. Croix Fishing Rods Website
The Rod Techniques
Spinning rods and Bait Caster can never have enough rods!
Shimano Website for Fishing Rods
Come to Grimsby Tackle to see our selection of fishing rods.
Rod/Reel Combinations
The Rod Techniques

Drop Shot Rods
- typically have a very sensitive tip and then start to stiffen close to the top for a sweeping, type
hook set the hook and applying steady pressure on the retrieve of a fish down deep.

Worm and Jig Rods - typically are quite stiff throughout the whole rod allowing for aggressive hook sets,
and retrieving the fish.

Jerk Bait Rods - fairly stiff throughout the rod as this rod is for doing just what it says, and that is making
jerk/wind, jerk/wind motions instead of a steady retrieve.

Crank Bait Rods - have a light and lively tip allowing for whipping casts with light lures and allow the baits to have
the proper action. Also to allow the fish to swallow the bait without feeling too much resistance.
It is easier to lose a fish on a treble bait so a soft tip makes it harder for the fish to throw it.

Spinner Bait Rods - fairly stiff rod for those big hook sets with a flexible tip leaving a little forgiveness,
so you don’t rip the hook out of the fish’s mouth.

Frog Rods - again, stiff with a soft tip for the same reason as the above rod.

Flipping Rod - a heavy rod for flipping heavy lures such as swim baits or flipping jigs into the slop/weeds
and be able to horse the fish out before it goes deep and tangles in the weeds.

Musky Rods - obviously very heavy action so you are able to cast huge lures and handle huge fish. They
come in a wide variety of lengths as there are different applications associated with boat length and arm strength.

So I still have not answered the real question: Why have all these rods, or at least a few?...